This 2020 vintage, from one of the top Domaine in Crozes Hermitage, Alain Graillot (now run by his son Maxime) is the benchmark for the region.
The grapes for this wine are harvested quite early - generally much earlier than his peers - but Maxime Graillot says that 'we don't have to push ripeness so far - what I want is kind of crunchy, not jammy." This helps of course to keep the alcohol levels down at 13% (for the 2020).
What we get with the 2020 is cherry-like fruit on the nose, a full bodied wine with velvety richness and darker-fruit flavours on the palate, hints of black pepper & leather, and a long (dare I say) crunchy finish - fruity but not jammy!
Wine Advocate scores this wine 89-92, drinking 2022-2030
Syrah is the only red varietal permitted in the Northern Rhone, although some wines have a little Rousanne or Marsanne added (white varietals which are permitted).
Crozes Hermitage is huge by Rhone standards as it is over 50% of the whole Northern Rhone region. There is a real mix of land - undulating hills and relatively flat areas, unlike the smaller, more renowned, but much more expensive regions like Cote Rotie* and Condrieu, which have steep terraced vineyards, smaller production and are vastly more expensive!
Because of the relatively large production in Crozes Hermitage (the main Co-operative takes over 50% of production) it is important to be selective, and Graillot is very selective!
The Northern Rhone is quite different from the Southern Rhone in that the terroir is different but so also is the climate. The Northern Rhone has a more continental climate - wetter, cooler winters - than the Southern Rhone. This has evolved to the position today that Northern Rhone (Crozes, Hermitage, Cote Rotie etc) uses only Syrah for it's red wines while the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf-du-pape, Vacqueyras, Gigondas etc) use Grenache predominantly blended with Syrah, Mourverde etc.
That's not to say we don't love the Southern Rhone wines, it's just that they are different!
You should definitely try the VACQUEYRAS 2019 Domaine de La Charbonniere
* On one visit to Cote Rotie, our host Stephane Montez, decided to drive us to the restaurant at the bottom of the hill. We don't think that he deliberately rolled the car (it was a 4x4) but he did! He just laughed and said 'I told you the slopes were steep!'.
Alc. Vol. 13%
Last Tasted: January 2023